Are you going to be driving a car?

If so, here's what you need to know...

There are several specific things you need to do in order to register your car and to obtain a TX driver's license.  

Car Insurance - This is standard fare, so either contact your current insurance provider and switch the coverage to TX, or get a new policy from one of the friendly insurance companies that occupy commercial TV time just as much as the beer, car, or movie makers. 

Oh, and speaking of beer and driving, the BAC limit in TX is .08%, so be careful out there.  Here's the number of a taxi company that can pick you up real quick like.  Yellow Cab  (512) 452-9999


Vehicle Inspection - Before you can register your car, you need to get it inspected at an official location.  They're everywhere, including the neighborhood gas station, so it shouldn't be an issue in finding something close to your house.  There will be an official sign out front signifying that it's an official inspection spot.  Oh, and make sure you keep the paperwork they give you in a safe place because if it's folded, creased, or imperfect in any way, the DMV won't accept it. 


Registering your car - Must be done within 30 days of moving into the state.  You'll need to go to one of the government offices and wait in line for your number to be called like most DMV's across the country.  Here's what you'll need to bring with you:

• inspection certification
• proof of liability insurance
• the vehicle's odometer reading if it is less than 10 years old
• an original out-of-state title, proof of registration, proof of sales tax payment or current foreign/military ownership document
• completed Form 130-U
• the following fees:
  • registration fee
  • title application fee of $28 or $33, depending on the county
  • new resident tax of $90

Getting your TX drivers license - Must be done within 90 days of moving into the state.  There are specific offices that only focus on drivers' licenses, so the crowds get pretty big, so make sure you go with plenty of time on your hands.  Here are a couple Driver's License offices:

Austin South

4719 South Congress Avenue
AUSTIN, TX 78745-2302
(512) 444-5241 

North Lamar

6121 North Lamar
AUSTIN, TX 78752
(512) 424-2076

If you have a VALID out-of-state license in your possession, please bring it to the driver license office to surrender. The written and driving examinations will be waived, but you must still pass a vision exam.  

Goodbye Friend...A Story About Stu

When I was studying abroad in Sevilla, Spain, in the fall of 1999, my parents came to visit and observe all of the studying I was doing.  One night during their visit, we stumbled upon a Tex Mex bar that I had totally never been to before, and we got my dad drunk for the first time in years.  During that completely coherent conversation, we raised the topic of getting a new dog because our current yellow lab, Herkimer (aka Herkie), was getting old and probably wouldn't be around for too much longer.  Once the argument between the dog lover and the dog caretaker settled, we started talking about a name.  Since it had always been a running joke in our family that a baby named "Askim" would be funny (say it out loud to yourself), the dog lover who never drinks (or curses) blurted out, "I'm going be so sick and tired of people asking me what his name is, I'm going to say his name is Shut The Fuck Up And Stop Asking Me."  Me, the lover of random acronyms, figured that the shortened name for this unfortunately titled pup would be STFUASAM, which obviously wouldn't work, so we quickly shortened it to STUFAM.  After the drunken haze settled, we then realized that name wouldn't even work, so we shortened it to Stu.  Fast forward a year to me pulling up to my parent's driveway in Phoenix with a 3 month old yellow lab puppy, the dog lover is crying out of excitement and the dog caretaker has a scowl on her face that would burn a hole in the sun.  Fast forward again 9 years to today, and we are saying goodbye to the best friend a family could ever have.  Stu was pure love and affection, and added a joy to that household that could never be described.  Stu was a friend to the umpteenth degree, even to those who never wanted him around (who also raised him better than anyone could have, Thanks Ma).  Sadly, Stu is being put down this morning because a battle with cancer is making his body too difficult for his soul to maintain.  He'll be in a happier place later today, and we will be left here to reminisce on all the good times we had with him.  The pulling and yelping while on walks to Squaw Peak mountain.  The morning run to grab the paper.  The endless moments of unwarranted licks.  And the never ending love that we shared with him.  Thank you Stu for being the best member of our family that we could have ever wished to have.  Safe travels, and we love you.

Where should you live?

Even though Austin is on the smaller side of things (especially compared to our last city, LA), it has a ton of neighborhood options to choose from.  You can choose between yuppie downtown lofts/condos, college-town houses, quiet residential homes, and so on.  You can choose to live within walking distance to a ton of bars, restaurants, and shops, or you can nestle into a wooded area far from any popular commercial districts.  You can find almost any type of area, except for maybe beachfront or mountain terrain.

We initially focused our search on the 78704 South Congress (SoCo) area because we heard it was the up and coming social area.  And since we were going to rent for the first year while we became familiar with the city and decided where to buy, we wanted to be within walking distance to plenty of fun places to eat, drink, and be merry.  We jumped in a car and drove around SoCo and its surrounding areas, including Travis Heights and Bouldin Creek, and found plenty of houses that would do the trick.  We refreshed Craigslist pages every 5 minutes waiting for new places to pop up.  But it wasn't until we had a real estate agent drive us around Clarksville did we find the area that was right for us.  It provided quiet neighborhoods with spacious housing and a decent back yard, along with great restaurants, a grocery store (that has an amazing beer selection, btw), cafes and even a soda shop/drug store that was ripped right out of 1955 and serves the damn best burger and shake I've had in a long time.

So we chose Clarksville, but it may not be the right choice for you, so below is a quick recap of some neighborhoods that might tickle your fancy:

• SoCo (South Congress) - Sount of the river on Congress, you'll have the trendiest of neighborhoods on the block.  You'll be able to stumble to/from popular restaurants like Guerro's and trendy spots like the Hotel San Jose's pool.
• Downtown - Grab one of the trendy lofts while you can so you can stumble to and from the trendy bars downtown and on West 6th
• Hyde Park - Join the UT kids and get a decently sized house in a decently located neighborhood and enjoy a decently convenient commute to anything in the city
• Clarksville - Just a short drive/long walk to downtown, it's a quiet option that still has an old-school town feel with quaint options for shopping and eating
• Barton Creek - Apparently the new, fancy spot, it's a reach from any night life, but filled with beautiful homes and terrain.
• Travis Heights - Just east of SoCo, this is a quiet woodsy neighborhood  with only parks to walk to.  You do have easy access to the 35 and SoCo, and the houses are beautiful, so get in here if you can.
• South Lamar - The area most symbolizes what old Austin is like.  The north is known as yuppieville while the south is keeping it real.  There is plenty to do, eat and drink down here.
• The East Side - If you're looking for cheap land/housing and strong Hispanic influence, then hop over the 35 and get the prices low while you can.  There are pockets of social life, but more or less, it's the cheap housing that brings people over here.

That's just a quick look at the different areas to live in, so be sure to talk to your friends and Realtors about other possible options.  No matter what though, look at them all because you're bound to fall in love with one of them.

 

We may not be from here, but...

We'll be using this space to teach people little lessons we've learned since moving to Austin.  There's a lot to talk about because even though things are much bigger here in Texas, there are a lot of those little things you'll need to know.  So, let's start with something that's not necessarily a lesson, but instead a bumper sticker that caught our eye, and made us feel right at home.  

A Memorial Day Surprise

So Tania and I have been back in the States for two months now, and we've filled our time with family, friends, memories, and planning for the next phase in our life together.  We've spent countless hours with our 14 month old nephew Ian and seen him start walking and almost start talking, all the while seen his personality blossom into the most unbelievable little boy around.  We've visited our friends in LA for a bachelor party (Matt DeVille's), to visit friends, to dance our asses off at Coachella, and to celebrate our friends Luke and Thu at their wedding in San Diego.  We joined thousands of people down at the state capital to protest the SB 1070 law.  We've climbed 6 of the 7 summits in Phoenix (your ours next time South Mountain!).  We rooted on the Suns as they beat the Spurs and fought hard but eventually losing to the Lakers in the Western Conference finals.  We've eaten at amazing restaurants and visited beautiful parks like the Botanical Gardens.  And we've spent as much time with the Palumbos as possible knowing that we'd be moving on to the east with the Shershins soon enough.

Our last weekend in Arizona was spent with Tony, Anna Marie, Scott, Emily, Ian, and plenty of family friends playing golf, poker, Scattergories, and barbecuing together in the incredibly gorgeous setting of Forest Highlands.  It was the perfect way to spend quality time with Craig's family before heading onto a fun cross-country trip starting the Tuesday after Memorial Day. 

All in all, the two months after we got back from Asia were filled with family and friends, allowing us to ease back into the pace that only this country can provide.  And we were reminded of all the reasons we love this country so.  But one story from this weekend reminded us of our time in Vietnam, and of why we all get a day off during this national holiday of Memorial Day.

Today, I played the first 9 holes at the Canyon course of Forest Highlands just with my father, Tony, and his brother Mike.  After 9, Mike walked back to his house and a member of the group behind us asked to join Tony and me in our 2some.  Of course we accepted and he tee'd off with us at 10 while introducing ourselves.  When he heard our last name, he asked whether we were related to the kicker from Notre Dame 10 or so years ago.  When we told him Scott was indeed our brother/son and that Ton had attended ND law school, conversation progressed to uncover that both this new member of our group, John, and Tony had been in Vinh Long, Vietnam, in 1969.  Then after much more astonishing discussion about this coincidence, they realized that John's company was moving into the same floor of Tony's building on Central Blvd in Phoenix.  This definition of "it's a small world" blew us away along with the cloudless and windless skies above the Canyon course, a site to be seen by itself.  Yet with this random occurrence happening in the middle of our round together, it was a story to be told as soon as we got off the course.

Any way, this memory of taking Tony back to Vinh Long for the first time since he was there 40 years ago reminded us not only of the incredible time we had with him and my mother there, but of how small of a world it is that we live.  We're grateful of the service they provided, ironically on this Memorial Day weekend, and grateful of the ability we have to relate to the land in which they served so long ago. 

Thought you'd want to hear that story.  We're off to the Grand Canyon tomorrow, then onto the cross-country trip on Tuesday.  Check-in with you soon.

Phase 5 - Malaysia and the Philippines

Here's the video from the final leg of our trip.  Tania did an amazing job putting this together, so we hope you enjoy it!

Music by the Yeah Yeah Yeahs and Metric

Day 133 Tuesday March 23 Going home ☹

We flew out of Manila through Tokyo and Los Angeles, finally landing in Phoenix 22 hours later.  We ate some good noodles and drank some good beer in Tokyo in the hopes of knocking us out for the long stretch of the trip, but no luck, neither of us slept very much, meaning the jetlag is going to be bad; a decent price to pay for what we did over the last 5 months.

And that's all folks.  We hope you enjoyed following the trip through these blog entries and the videos we made.  Along with this being a trip of a lifetime for us, we realize that a lot of people lived the trip vicariously through us, which was our hope all along.  We hope you learned a few things about that far away region, and we hope you gained an itch to explore more of the world yourselves.  All we can say is that wherever you go and whatever you do will be worth it.  It always is.

Stay curious.  Stay energetic.  Stay passionate.  Stay open-minded.  And most importantly, stay happy.

Thanks to everyone for all of your support.  Now that we're back, we hope to see all of you very soon.

Cheers.

The Palumbos

Day 132 Monday March 22 Manila, Philippines

Not much to report here.  On Sunday, Tony drove us from Punto Fuego, past the Tagaytay volcano (actually a volcano within a volcano - so cool), and back to Manila.  We tried to get massages once back in the city, but there were no available therapists, so we just headed back to their condo for a quiet evening.

Monday was all about prepping to head back to the US on Tuesday morning.  We washed our clothes, packed our bags, bought some last minute gifts, and of course went to get one last massage.  Man we're going to miss being able to get such inexpensive and quality massages on a regular basis, because we know how expensive they are in the US, along with just about every other thing one needs or wants to buy.  Yet this is the exact type of thinking we spend all day stopping ourselves from concentrating on because we knew that if we dwelled on it too much, we really would be depressed when we got home.  Instead, we focused on all of the positive aspects of what going home would offer, including family, friends, comfortable surroundings, and especially for me, Mexican food.

We spent our last night of the trip taking Tony and Annie to a nice Italian dinner inside the Fort Bonifacio Global City.  We were so lucky that Diana organized for us to stay with her parents while we were in the Philippines, because not only did they provide top-notch accomodations, they were such amazing people to spend time with.  They are such amazing people that we will cherish having gotten to know and gotten to share their lives in this amazing country with.  The last few days really were the perfect way to end our trip.  Thank you, thank you, thank you Tony and Annie for everything!

Dinner with Tony and Annie

The last picture of our trip

Days 129-131 Friday-Sunday Punta Fuego, Philippines March 18-21

Let's just get it out of the way...Tania and I are the luckiest people in the world.  We are lucky to have the family and friends that we do, lucky to have had the greatest wedding in the world, lucky to be on this trip, and lucky to have found the perfect love with each other.  We admit this, and could never describe how truly fortunate we feel every day of our lives.

Now that that's out there, we'll tell you about our time in Punto Fuego.

After saying goodbye to the Child Fund team in Taal, Hubert and another team member drove us to Annie's sister's, Jenny's, house at Punta Fuego, which is a private coastal town west of Manila.  Jenny is one of the sweetest women in the world, and her house was equally beautiful.  We spent the weekend lounging by the pool, chatting over meals with her other sister and husband, the Colombos, taking the boat out to remote corners of the area for some swimming in the crystal clear water and snorkeling through the exotic marine life, including some giant clams that were opened to expose a transluscent blue inner shell, and just enjoying this incredible corner of the world with some incredible people.

 Sunset on the golf course above Jenny's house in Punto Fuego.

The view from Jenny's house in Punto Fuego.

We could not have imagined a better way to relax after the week we had in Taal.  And on top of that, we couldn't imagine a better way to wrap-up our 5 month journey through this region.  It gave us a chance to reflect on everything we had seen and done, and to prepare for what was about to come when we return back to the US.  Would we be changed people when we got back?  How much would we miss being on the road, experiencing something new and different every day?  What did we miss the most about the US, and what would we do/see/eat during the first few days back?  These were just some of the things that we pondered in the waning days of our trip.  There were no clear or easy answers to any of them, so we decided to relax and simply enjoy the home, setting, and meals that our immensely gracious and generous hosts were providing for us in Punto Fuego.  We could answer the questions when we got back to the US, or maybe during our 22 hours of travel we had ahead of us on Tuesday morning.

 Captain Tony driving our boat around different snorkeling areas.

Tania with the ladies at dinner.

Thank you Jenny, Annie, Tony, and Colombos.  Your homes and lives in Punto Fuego are amazing, and we appreciate you taking us in like you did more than you know.

Days 124-129 Sunday-Friday March 14-17 Batangas, Philippines

Sunday morning I went with Tony to the Manila Country Club to watch the Pacquiao/Clottey fight which was such a treat to be a part of.  Watching a Pacquiao fight in the Philippines is like watching the Super Bowl in the US.  EVERY person was watching, and the entire country's energy and attention was given to the fight during the week leading up to the event.  Not only that, it was surreal to watch an event at the new Dallas Cowboys stadium while I was on the other side of the world.  Tony's friends were great, and it was a blast watching the fight with them, even though it was quite uneventful due to Clottey's pure defensive approach.  I was very appreciative that Tony brought me with him (as Tania and I have been for everything they're doing for us while in their country), and also happy that Pacquiao won because I think the country would have burned if he lost.

After the fight, Tania and I packed our bags and got picked up by two reps from (Christian) Child Fund (CF), the foundation that brought us to the Philippines in the first place.  Carmen, Tania's mother, has sponsored a child within this organization for a long time now, but has never actually met any of these kids in person, so we thought we'd utilize this opportunity to become personally familiar with her charity while we were in the region.

It turns out that one of the men who picked us up, Hubert, was going to be our guide/rep for the week.  After the 3 hour drive to Taal, which is in the Batangas region, we were shown to our hotel, the Little Bridge Resort.  It did have a pool and was on beach-front property, but that's as far as the resort aspect of the hotel went.  The pool did serve us well throughout the week, though, because we swam man laps with our snorkel masks.  It's amazing how much more we like swimming as a source of exercise when breathing is easier by the snorkel mask.

Several CF staffers took us into the main area of Taal on our first night to grab food.  We got a pizza to go and some groceries from 7-11 and headed back to the hotel so we could get a good night rest before our big first day in Batangas.

Monday morning we headed over to the elementary school with Hubert and encountered a sea of children who were in a parade line walking out of the school gate.  The parade, and subsequent singing/dancing performance, were all commemorating the kids' awareness of El Nino and its effect on our planet.  We walked with the kids for about 20 minutes before returning to the school and over to the outside stage where the rest of the morning would occur.

Taal kids and a sign they made on recycled plastic during their El Nino parade.

 One of the incredibly well choreographed and performed dance pieces during the El Nino show.

Several groups of kids sang songs like "My Heart Will Go On" and "Nobody" (apparently the biggest song to ever come out of Korea - actual song begin after the 2:00 mark in the linked video).  Other groups of kids performed choreographed dances that rival some of the best we saw on last season's So You Think You Can Dance.  The kids put so much effort into the performances, and it was so cool to witness in person.  They also treated us like celebrities, giving us seats up front and coming up to us to say hello.  Such a great way to get to know the kids of this area.

After the show, we walked over to the CF office and met the child who Carmen sponsors, Janric.  His father brought him and his sister to the office, and we got to spend an hour with him, just long enough for him to warm up to us, and not too long to remove him from his daily routine.  Tania had thoughtfully bought Janric some children's books which they read and played with during our visit.  Janric especially took to a book that came with stickers that he could place throughout the book.  He was quite timid during the first half of our visit, but as more stickers were stuck and the more time he spent next to Tania, he definitely took a liking to my beautiful wife.  When the visit was done, we all exchanged hugs and took some pictures so we could share the moment with Carmen and Tony.

 Tania with Janric (blue), a CF staffer, and Janric's little sister (orange).

Tania with Janric and his sister at the end of our visit with them.

Even though our primary purpose of coming to Taal was to meet Janric, CF knew that we wanted to spend a week with them to experience what the organization does for the local community, and to get to know the community in which Janric lives.  One day we toured all of the villages within Batangas and around Taal.  We sat with a group of mother's and their children while a local elder taught the mothers about pre-adolescent development and care.  We toured a few plots of land on which CF funds go towards locals growing their own food and raise their own cattle.  And we ate lunch with a few families at their homes while asking questions about their lives and community.  

 Mothers and their children at the pre-adolescent community class.

One of the children at the class, after I made her cry (ask Tania).

Yet the highlight came at the end of the week when we spent two days with a youth group that uses the CF office as their activity headquarter.  These teenagers, some of whom were CF sponsored children earlier in their lives, worked to raise funds for a computer, choreographed and practiced dances and songs, and simply enjoyed each others' company in a very positive and productive atmosphere.  Tania spent Thursday afternoon really getting to know the kids, asking about their dreams and aspirations.  One girl was so obviously ready to be a leader in the real world, and we will not think twice about hiring her if she ever wanted to work in the US.  And on Friday, as a farewell gathering for Tania and me, the kids performed several dances and songs to commemorate our visit to Taal.  We couldn't help but get choked up as we watched how happy and appreciative these kids were to have support from the outside world.  I even got into the mix and joined them on stage for a dance, but quickly fell behind because I didn't know their choreography.  It didn't matter, though, because it was the fact that we were all together, two completely different worlds joined with the hope that we can all live and work together to make this world a better place.

 The CF youth group singing for us at our farewell ceremony.

The two of us with the CF youth group.

Along with Tania's sunrise boat ride to a beautiful choral reef, a climb up to the roof of the Taal Church (and subsequent magnificent views of the ocean and inland areas), walks to other villages and their markets, tours of local museums, and a few dinners at the Taal Bistro (we did eat sisig, a local favorite that we saw on Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations), that was our time in Batangas.  It was a complete departure from the luxury shown to us by Tony and Annie in Manila, which gave us an eye-opening perspective on the country because both sides are incredible in their own ways.  This dichotomy is seen on a much smaller scale in many areas of Manila where the opposite ends of the spectrum sit less than a block from one another.  But like we said, both lifestyles are rich and beautiful in their own ways, and we're forever grateful to have been able to see and feel firsthand why the Philippines is a land of people who are very proud in their history and culture.

Days 122-123 Friday-Saturday March 12-13 Manila, Philippines

The primary purpose of us traveling to the Philippines was to visit Batangas and the child, John Ric, who Tania's mother Carmen sponsors through the group (Christian) Child Fund.  She has been active with this organization for a long time now, so we were excited to see first-hand how her contributions were affecting someone so little and so far away.

Yet, as we have done the entire trip, we wanted to milk every last ounce out of our time here, so we organized to spend a few days with (follow me here) Tania's friend Diana's parents, Tony and Annie, in Manila and the surrounding cities.  This was the last leg of our trip, so we also wanted to make sure we enjoyed a little more beach time before heading home, which we thought we'd do on our own, but turns out Tony and Annie would provide us with that opportunity, amongst others.  More on that later, though.

When we got to Manila, we took the two hour bus ride (because Air Asia was located that far out of town, not in the conveniently located Manila airport, of course) into the city, where we experienced that chaos that is Manila traffic.  I mean this place puts LA to shame.  Once our bus got to the station and we grabbed a cab, it took us 1.5 hours to go 1.5 miles.  We'd hit this traffic again during our time in Manila, but boy oh boy was it mind blowing to see for the first time.

When we finally got to Tony and Annie's place in Fort Bonifacio, we were pleasantly surprised that they lived in an incredibly beautiful condo in an upper floor of a tower overlooking Manila Country Club and the rest of the city.  Tony and Annie greeted us and made us feel so at home, which was so incredibly kind of them, and made us feel very comfortable during our time there.

We took it easy that first day because we had been traveling very odd hours, but we did have a delicious dinner with our hosts.  The following day Tony and their driver Leo took us on a guided tour of the city, hitting all the important spots including Intramuros, the Mall of Asia, St. Augustine Church, and many more malls since the company SM seems to be popping monstrous buildings all over the city (with their logo emblazoned prominently wherever possible).  It was a quick day tour, but as always, we had a good idea of the city's layout because of it.

 Tania and Tony outside of the house in which Diana grew up.

Saturday night Diana's cousin Niko and his girlfriend picked us up so we could party the night away at their friend's birthday party at Establishment.  Luckily for us, "party the night away" for Niko meant the same as it now does for us, meaning we had a few drinks with the party, had many laughs, stopped by another club and shook our tails for a few songs, then retired home by midnight so we could get a good night's sleep.  It was very nice of them to include us in their plans, and it was good to see what the night life in Manila is like for the large amount of expats living in the city.

Sunday morning we packed our bags because Child Fund was sending a van to pick us up and drive us to Batangas for our week of volunteering with their group.  We didn't need to say good bye to Tony and Annie since they invited us to their sister's beach house at Punto Fuego on Friday, meaning we'd get our beach time in before going home AND would get to spend more time with them before leaving.  So perfect.

Days 119-121 Tuesday-Thursday March 9-11 Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

The flight from Sandakan to Kota Kinabalu was easy, but as always with Air Asia, the walk from the plane to the terminal was abnormally long because, well, this isn't really a commercial airport.  Imagine Southwest Airlines only flying out of the most remote terminals and/or airports.  Makes one wonder whether the discounted airfare is actually worth it.

Enough of that.  Back to the trip.

When we got into KK, we grabbed a taxi and took the short ride to our hotel, the Hotel Eden54, which we obviously picked because of Lauren and Matthew's daughter Eden who was born the same day as my nephew Ian.  KK isn't the biggest town in the world, but it was definitely bigger than Sandakan, and had much more of a vibrant day and night life, which we were excited about after 4 days of quiet time on the waterfront.

We had several great meals while in KK, but that didn't start during our first night, which was spent at an Italian restaurant which was highly recommended in our books, and had a 50% off deal.  Well, there's a reason they offered such a discount because they didn't offer such great food or drink.  Tania's pina colada was not really a pina colada (that's what she gets for ordering a pina colada in Malaysia).  The wine was garbage.  And the food was not even close to the standard set by Anna Marie's famous Italian.  Luckily, though, we kept exploring KK eateries and found an incredible sushi joint that we visited several times, and some other decent restaurants that revamped our impression of food in KK.

Our first day we grabbed a speed boat out to two of the several islands just off the coast of KK for some R&R time on the beach.  It was a nice day of grabbing some sun, only interrupted by a swarm of Japanese tourists snapping pictures of girls in bikinis, and a hellish wind storm that forced us to the other side of one of the islands where the wind was being blocked.  We got in some good snorkeling in that quiet area, and I even braved the windy side of the island where the waves were 3 foot choppy, but paid off with incredible views under the water.  Gorgeous fish and choral of all shapes and colors.

 Where did these tourists come from, and where are their bathing suits?

 Shallow water snorkeling on one of the islands off of KK.

Our other big activity in KK was a bus tour up to Mount Kinabalu.  We were grouped with a fun set of people from all over the world, and got to take in the breathtaking views of the country's tallest mountain.  Snow capped the peaks and clouds skirted the edges, so we snapped some beautiful pics of the views.  We also got to enjoy a nice lunch, walk through a tree-top canopy park, and soak up the natural hot spring water before jumping back on the bus to return to KK.

Mount Kinabalu

KK seems to be where Malaysia as a whole is going in the future.  Catering to tourists, they're building a ton of malls (because it's so incredibly hot most of the year), opening nice restaurants, and expanding the city limits to allow for new developments perfect for prospecting home buyers.  Let's hope they grow gradually so that the worst scene we saw (more garbage floating in the water at the docks) doesn't start showing up over more parts of the city.

 Think twice about buying that case of water bottles next time you're at Costco.

We were delayed at the airport, so I walked around and snapped the below picture of a group of Muslim women dressed in a wide array of beautifully colored burkas.  They humored me and allowed me to take their picture as long as I sent them the picture to their email addresses.

 Women in beautiful burkas at the KK airport.

This Muslim country has its supreme differences from the US, but many similarities, which we hope bodes well for the middle east and west one day learning to live harmoniously together.

Days 115-118 Friday-Monday March 5-8 Sandakan, Malaysia

Let's start by saying that there's no much to do in the town of Sandakan.  It's incredibly hot.  It's a traditional Muslim town meaning that the bars are limited and the nightlife non-existant.  That being said, that's not why we came here.  We came for two reasons:  one, we wanted to see orangutans in the wild; and two, we wanted to prove the US State Department wrong, that the region was safe for Americans to travel to, no matter how close the city is located to terrorist hot spots in the southern Philippines.  We accomplished both.

Our hotel, the Swiss Inn Waterfront, was located right on the water and in the heart of town, which made for some relaxed and romantic dinners at the waterfront restaurants.  Our hotel's restaurant had hot pot night our first night, which is always good news for us after falling in love with this eating feast in China.  There are also several eateries down from our hotel that served incredible seafood and cold beer, all for especially cheap prices, amongst an open, airy environment perfect for people watching the locals.

Basically the only other thing to do in Sandakan proper is visit the Agnes Keith House, which sits atop the hill overlooking the city.  We did so, and were thrilled to enjoy the incredible views while sampling the restaurant's fine interpretations of local specialties.  We also spoke at length with a couple that was on our river boat excursion the day before.  They had traveled just as we were several years earlier, but were now just vacationing after settling into a home in Vancouver, a far cry from their homeland of London.

 Tania outside of the Agnes Keith House, looking pretty in the hat she bought in Siem Reap.

Speaking of the river trip, we booked the trip through a local hostel who sent a driver to pick us up (30 minutes late) at 9am.  Expecting a quick drive to the river, we were instead told that we had a 3.5 hour drive with two other tourists crammed into a small compact car ahead of us.  We questioned whether to go for a minute, but decided to see it through so we could see the orangutans and because there wasn't much else to do in the city.

Once we arrived at the water, we met up with 20 other tourists who jumped onto two long boats with us.  We sat in the back and took in the fresh breeze and views of proboscis monkies and all types of birds while our tour guide explained everything around us.  It really was an incredible ride which was only made better by two, very rare, sighting of orangutans in the wild.  Many people go on this same trip and don't get to see one.  Even though they were off in the distance, it was still enthralling to see the hair stand on top of their cute little heads, and their extremities that flop all over the place as they swing from tree to tree.  We felt so lucky to have seen them.

 Proboscis monkeys are so playful and curious!

On our last day, we visited the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary, even though we had heard many negative comments about how touristy it was, and how unnatural the area was.  Well, yes, there were a ton of people at the viewing platform during the feeding, and yes, it's a confined space in which the monkeys have to live, but it's a HUGE confined space, and the monkeys get to roam quite freely in a very natural type of environment.  Plus, the huge crowd didn't detract from how exhilarating it was to see the fuzzy orange orangutans swing closer and closer to the feeding platform, and eventually swinging onto it so they could grab a few bananas from the park rangers.  The way their legs swing up next to their hands in a way that only Gumby could do is hilarious, and the expressions on their introverted little faces is like nothing else on the planet.  They truly are a precious wildlife that we as humans should strive to preserve if for no other reason than so we can laugh and giggle at their comic demeanor.  And so they don't go extinct, but not all humans care about stuff like that, so let's fight for the giggles.

An orangutan just hanging out people watching (literally, he's staring at a large group of people there to watch him).

We were skeptical at first of our time in Sandakan, but were happy that we made the effort to spend a few days here by the time we left.  It's not the sexiest destination in the world, but definitely a fulfilling stop to see a whole corner of the world that we never expected to see.

Days 112-114 Tuesday-Thursday March 2-4 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

The busy day at work version

- Being on the "fringe" of town in Malaysia is like being on the outskirts of town in the US
- Lightning and rain storms in Malaysia might as well be mini-hurricanes, with lightning that blew us out of our seats one day
- Petronas is an oil company, not some historic native Malaysian name
- The cool kids call Kuala Lumpur "KL"
- The KL airport is in another city, so plan accordingly
- If you only want to see malls on your next vacation, KL is for you 


The slow day at work version

On this trip, we've come to heavily rely on travel sites like TripAdvisor and Agoda to book our rooms.  An important of these sites is their inclusion of the Google Maps API to show where hotels are located in relation to the important sites in each city.  This is crucial information since getting stuck in the wrong neighborhoods could lead to an unsafe environment and large taxi/train bills.  Knowing this, I'm still dumbfounded about why and how I chose Hotel Maluri.  Maybe because the description said it was on the "fringe" of the Golden Triangle, which was the neighborhood in which we wanted to stay, and I relied on that instead of looking on the map?  Maybe because it was the tail end of the trip and I got lazy?  Who knows, but let's just say that this hotel wasn't close to the Golden Triangle, let alone our understanding of the word "fringe."  It was too far to walk to any of the attractions, no matter who's comfort level of walking you refer to, so we had to either take a $10 cab each way or walk all the way to the train station and ride that into town.  Either way, we were in BFE compared to the mass of hotels located in the heart of town.

Oh well.  As with most things we've experienced on this trip, things happen for a reason, usually better in the long run.  It's just tough to see the positive result while nestled inside the metaphorical forest.  What we did learn is that being stuck in a neighborhood on the outskirts of town allows one to experience a completely different side of a city.  Meaning that if we had booked a hotel in the heart of KL, we never would have seen what life is like for the locals outside of the city center.  We got to ride the trains, walk amongst the outdoor eateries that permeate Malaysia, and see first-hand how Malaysians live amongst this metropolis.

Speaking of the metropolis that is KL, we got into the airport and took a 1.5 hour taxi ride from the remote airport into town.  After our driver finally found the hotel, it was too late to do much exploring, so we took the train into the Golden Triangle and explored one thing that KL is famous for...it's mega malls.  We walked around the Berjaya's Times Square's 10 floors of shops, watched the indoor roller coaster zoom by, ate at Subway (which was exactly like the American shops, not in a good way because American tastes to exactly translate internationally, leading to the stall being empty besides us), and watched The Lightning Thief (because the IMAX was showing some John Travolta movie instead of Alice in Wonderland).  What else could one want from a trip to the mall???

The next morning, we took a guided tour of the city, which we've learned is the best way to get a mental grasp of the city's layout, even though it's so touristy.  Sometimes being touristy allows one to get to know a city the best, so we booked the trip through our trusty hotel.  When our local driver finally arrived to the hotel, we drove us to pick up our fellow tourist, a well-worn woman who told our driver of Indian decent that the country of India was dirty.  That should tell you enough of this woman and why we didn't get her email address when the tour was over.

In front of the Petronas Towers with our surly tour group member.

 

At the batik factory, watching an artist create a new patern.

On the tour, we visited the presidential palace (actually, the exterior since no one was allowed past the two horses and guards at the gate), a pewter factory (where we learned how amazing pewter cubs can be to keep drinks cold), the national history museum (where we learned about how used and abused this country has been throughout time by every conquesting country, especially for tin and aluminum), a batik factory (a fabric design method famous in this region), and a chocolate factory (where we sampled everything possible until our stomachs were raw).  And of course the driver pointed to the other main attractions which we would visit on our own time the following days.

A woman in a burka outside of the Presidential Palace

The most important thing we wanted to explore while in KL was the Petronas Towers, made famous in the Sean Connery and Catherine Zeta Jones movie "Entrapment", and which is now the tallest set of twin towers due to the loss of our towers in NYC.  Before going to the towers, though, we stopped at the KL Tower (think the Seattle Needle) and had tea in the revolving restaurant.  We talked to a nice Indian fellow who was in town on his honeymoon, but was eating alone because his wife was shopping, which is KL's most popular activity due to all of the malls.  We also watched as a tremendous storm approach the tower and eventually engulf the tower with rain and lightning.  We got a little nervous being so much higher than all other high rises in the city, but all worries were for naught because we left unscathed and walked over to the Petronas Towers just as they were allowing the last group of the day to enter the gates.

 Tania got the nerve up to lean back on the KL Tower glass over 1000 ft. in the air.

Actually, when we got to the Petronas Towers desk, the staff informed us that no more tickets were available for that day, and that the last group was already in.  (Tip:  get to the towers by 8am and get a ticket or else you're likely to not get in that day, no matter what travel sites say about getting abandoned tickets).  Yet for some reason, as we regrouped at the base of the escalator devising what to do next, one of the desk staff walked up to us and slyly handed us two lanyards and told us to quietly join the last group in line.  Without hesitation, we hurried over to the group, received a pair of 3D glasses from another staffer, and walked into a mini movie theater with the rest of the group, having no idea what was going on.  Well, for the next 7 minutes, we sat through the world's longest advertisement for Petronas, one of Asia's largest oil companies.  The video happily explained to us how environmentally thoughtful the company was, and how it did all of its drilling and mining in the best interest of the planet.  How thoughtful of them.

Inside the Petronas Tower observation deck.  Last group of the day!

Sitting through that was well worth it because after the video completed, we were shown to the elevators so we could ride up to the observation deck, approximately half way up the towers.  The views were less impressive than from the KL Tower, but it was still fascinating to be standing in the same spot where the climax of Entrapment occured.  And, you know, to be in such a fine architectual  achievement, if that's what floats your boat.

During our last day, we visited Chinatown to see for ourselves the famous (or infamous) shopping area of town.  The shopping here isn't full of luxury brands found in the Golden Triangle and Bukit Bintang.  Instead, it was full of the same chochkies and trinkets that we had seen all across this continent.  Therefore, it lost the luster that most tourists experience, and instead annoyed the hell out of us because of the overly persistent salepeople constantly in our faces.  So, we decided to walk back to BP for a nice dinner.  The timing couldn't have been any better because when we finally got to Jalan Ceylon, the strongest storm we've ever seen (which is saying a lot coming from this girl from Miami and guy from Monsoon town - aka Phoenix) rolled in.  We ran into the first pub we saw and proceeded to eat and drink in the upper balcony while watching the rain come down outside.  At one point, a lighting bolt struck just outside of the balcony unleashing the loudest thunder shock we have ever imagined.  We both jumed into the air and barely kept the food in our mouths and stomachs.  Crazy.  But the rain subsided and we headed back to the hotel to pack and get ready for our flight the next morning to Sandakan. 

Since our flight was at 8am and the airport was 1.5 hours away, we had the same taxi driver from our arrival pick us up at 3:30am and take us to the airport.  Easy, right?  Wrong.  When he dropped us off at the main terminal, we started looking for where to check-in for our Air Asia flight, which after searching for 10 minutes, an information attendant informed us that Air Asia operated our of another terminal, 30 minutes away.  As you can guess, we were far from happy about possibly being late for our flight, for having to pay another $30 on top of our original taxi fare, and that our original driver didn't have the sense to take us to the correct terminal even though he knew we were flying Air Asia.  The Italian in me was raging, but the Cuban in Tania tamed my anger and we luckily made our flight, so no harm no foul, but man did that morning suck.  So for those of you who fly Air Asia in the future, know that the reason they can charge so little for their fares is because they operate out of remote locations that are a huge pain in the ass to access, so that value fare isn't always worth it in the end.

Along with a delicious lunch at Eest in the Westin, a few beers at the Belgian Beer Bar, and some quality shopping time for Tania in which she got me some rad flip flops and a cool button down shirt, that was our time in KL.  It is striving to be the city of the future that Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Singapore are setting the trend for, and is a must if you're trekking through the region.

Now off to Sandakan which has a travel advisory from the US State Department due to the Islamic radicals living and fighting in the region.  After a ton of consideration and research in the Internet, we decided to proceed with our travels to eastern Malaysia/Borneo so that we could see this remote corner of the region, and the attractions it  features including being able to see orangutans in the wild.

Days 110-111 Sunday-Monday February 28-March 1 Saigon, Vietnam

Knowing that they had to be up at 3am to make an early flight, Tony and Anna Marie crashed early at the Park Hyatt once we got into Saigon.  And since Tania and I decided to move our flight from Saigon to Kuala Lumpur to Tuesday so that we could enjoy one last day at the hotel, and to hang out with Steve, Lisa, and Luke a little more before we left.

Sunday night, Steve and Lisa's crew met at the 2 Lam Son bar down on the lobby level of the hotel which gave us the chance to say goodbye to all of these people who welcomed us so kindly into their scene over the last few weeks.  It also gave us the chance to spend as much time as possible with Steve and Lisa, who we were really going to miss when we left.  That's why after relaxing around the hotel and downtown area on Monday, we met them for a sushi dinner on Monday night to bid farewell to our time in Vietnam.  This being Steve and Lisa, though, we of course had to head back to their house and have a few more drinks before calling it a night.

 Steve and Lisa's crew growling at 2 Lam Son

And just like that, we were gone.  On the flight to Kuala Lumpur, we realized how long we had been in Vietnam, and how much we had done during our time there.  6 weeks passed in the blink of an eye, which was surreal because Vietnam was the reason we looked at SE Asia as a honeymoon destination in the first place.  It is where our great friends Dave, Steve, and Brian were from, which built our intrigue in the country over the last few years because of the traditions and food we were exposed to by them.  Vietnam was the heart of our trip, and it was over now, which could be a sad thought, but wasn't because we did more than we ever expected during our time here.  It was an incredible 6 weeks that we'll never, ever forget. 

Post sushi euphoria

Cảm ơn bạn Vietnam!

Days 109-110 Saturday-Sunday February 27-28 Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

Oops, forgot to post the entry from our time in Ha Long Bay before showing the video, so here's a little catch up...


Sadly, we had to check out of our heavenly room on the club floor of the Sofitel Metropol in Hanoi.  Yet as the entire time has been with my parents, we were okay with that because we knew there were more luxurious accommodations waiting for us in Ha Long Bay.  After a 4 hour drive, we came upon the coast filled with limestone karst formations jutting out of the ground, similar to what we saw in Yangshuo and the northern Vietnamese coast, but this time, the hills thwarted out of the water, not the ground.  This area is known as one of the most beautiful landscapes in all of Asia, and it didn't disappoint us.

We boarded our boat, the Ha Long Jasmine, and were escorted to our private suites which Anna Marie said were the only two on the boat.  Whether that's true or not, it was amazing to stay in such an incredible room on such a small boat.  Too bad we were only going to be on the boat for one night.

After the captain welcomed us and explained all of the obligatory safety procedures, Tony, Tania, and I jumped on a mini boat which took us to the Hang Sung Sot caves.  After a 10 minute hike which paled in comparison to our climb to the Phong Nha caves, we entered a huge system of wide open caves which were lit with neon lights, just like we had seen in other caves across Vietnam.  I slid my body through a "short cut" (aka a tight opening off the beaten path that no one is stupid enough to try and get through), Tony took-in life-like formations amongst the stalactites/mites (one rock looked just like a giant tortoise, on which people threw money for good luck), and Tania took several attempts at her "Happiness is what we all want" portion of our Vietnam video.  It was an exhilarating site trip to set foot on one of the thousands of formations that fill this famous bay.

Inside the Hang Sung Sot Caves

Some people also took a mini boat trip into another part of the bay, but the Palumbos opted to relax on the big boat and catch up on some sleep.  When dinner rolled around, we enjoyed a delicious buffet meal before the captain stood next to our table, asked the room to quiet down for a minute, and proceeded to sing a famous Vietnamese wedding song for Tania and me.  We couldn't help but shed a tear as he delicately voiced the chorus "It's okay to spend the rest of your life with me."  It was an incredible gesture that reminded us why we were on this trip in the first place.  The captain then gave us a delicious piece of cake which we shared with our table and those sitting around us, which included a very funny and gregarious couple from Ireland (Sandy and his wife).

 Sunset on the majestic Ha Long Bay

After dinner, Tony and Anna Marie taught Tania and me how to play bridge, which if you know how to play, you know that teaching it is harder than most anything on this planet.  Think teaching someone how to drive a stick, speak a new language, and hitting a baseball, all combined, and you have the complexity of trying to teach someone how to play bridge.  After a few practice rounds we played for real, and with some help, were able to grasp the general rules and strategies of the game.  Now that we have that down, we can play all the time when we're in Phoenix.  YAY!

 Our home for a day, the Ha Long Jasmine

The morning was uneventful before we docked and jumped back in our van to drive to the Hanoi airport.  On the way we stopped at some shopping centers which supposedly are filled with hand-made crafts from locals, but we were skeptical when we saw many of the same goods sold elsewhere in Vietnam and China.  They did have some decent stuff, though, so we took advantage of this final opportunity to buy gifts for people back home.

Then we were off back to Saigon so the old people could spend one last night at the Saigon Park Hyatt before flying back to the US at 4am, and so the youngins could spend two last days in Saigon with Steve and Lisa before taking off for Malaysia.

All in all, we couldn't deny the beauty of Ha Long Bay, but the hippie side of us couldn't help but notice the incredible amount of gas and trash blanketing the top layer of the water.  Since the bay is such a popular tourist attraction, the locals have populated the water with more boats than we could count, which obviously is going to soil the water beyond any natural condition.  All we could think of is that our friend Lauren Horner (Hey LB!) needed to open a Waterkeeper office here and clean this place up before it's completely ruined.

Any way, no more tangents.  We loved it up here, and if you can, try to spend a few days taking-in the awe inspiring views of Ha Long Bay.  Just try and do it with as little impact on the environment as possible.

Vietnam & Cambodia Video

Here's the video we made for our time in Vietnam and Cambodia. This stretch of the trip was extra special since we got to spend so much time with family (Tony and Anna Marie) and friends (Steve, Lisa, Luke, Hugh). 

Music is by The Temper Trap and Hot Chip.

Enjoy.


Honeymoon Phase 4 - Vietnam & Cambodia from Craig Palumbo on Vimeo.

Water puppet show in Hanoi

Here's a glimpse of the water puppet show we caught in Hanoi.  It's amazing what these artists are able to do from so far behind a curtain.  The artful tradition dates back to the 11th century, and is still one of the top attractions for those visiting Hanoi.  More info here.

Water puppet show in Hanoi from Craig Palumbo on Vimeo.

Craig finished books #4 & #5 by Mark Haddon

Curious Incident of the Dog In the Night-Time by Mark Haddon
- As unique a book I've ever read, this "murder mystery" gives the reader a sneak peak at the world through the eyes of a 16 year old boy with Asperger syndrome, a type of autism.  His condition leaves him void of understanding emotion, therefore causing him to always revert back to his logic, which he excels at, but leaves him stranded in a world of people consumed by too much emotion.  It's a fascinating look at the world through eyes we'll never use, and reminds us how powerful yet fragile developmentally disabled minds and bodies can be.

A Spot of Bother by Mark Haddon
- Yes, I enjoyed Mr. Haddon's writing so much that I picked up another of his books to read.  This one is a hilarious look at the classic "normal on the surface but internally chaotic" family dramas, focusing on a British family leading up to the wedding of their eldest daughter.  Haddon's capability to get inside the characters' heads and describe the situations from their unique perspectives is incredible, which makdes for a very enjoyable read, even for those who don't normally enjoy stories that ring too close to their daily lives.

Days 106-108 Wednesday-Friday February 24-26 Hanoi, Vietnam

Okay, we did a ton while in Hanoi with my parents and loved so much about the city, but when all is said and done, what we’re going to talk about the most down the road is the Sofitel Metropol hotel in which we stayed.  We slept in a luxurious room filled with pillow menus and Hermes toiletries.  We ate and had complimentary happy hour drink in the club level restaurant.  We were catered to by our personal chefs.  And we never wanted to leave the hotel.  We know it sounds incredibly materialistic and that we should be excited about such different things in this incredible city, but we can’t help ourselves.  This hotel was as good as it gets.  We’ve been spoiled ever since Tony and Anna Marie showed up, and it hit a peak when we set our bags down, no, when our butler set our bags down in our heavenly room.

 Our room's bath tub where Tania spent many a moment during our time at the Sofitel Metropol.

But we did do more while in Hanoi.  We toured Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum (which was impeccably and tastefully done), the presidential grounds (which is probably the only yellow mansion to pull off that color so well),  small but impressive pagodas, and the Hanoi Hilton, which is the prison where so many Americans were taken hostage, including John McCain during the war.  Touring this jail now converted to a museum, we read the obligatory propaganda while looking at pictures of the horrific conditions these soldiers needed to endure, and also artifacts such as McCain’s flying suit in which he was captured over Lake Ho Tai.  Our tour guide gave us a fascinating tour through the city.

 Outside of Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum.

Speaking of our tour guide, his name was Mr. Ein and he looked like he was about 16.  In fact, though, he was 35, married, and lived with his family in his parents’ house because that is the duty of the youngest Vietnamese sibling to live with and care for the parents.  He was the quietest of our tour guides, but as soon as we hit the Hanoi streets, he knew everybody that crossed our paths.  Apparently he knew the entire city because he was raised and went to school here.  He studied tourism, and did a hell of a job showing us his hometown.

In addition to enjoying one of Vietnam’s most treasured traditions of water puppetry, we also took a cooking class with famous French chef Didier Corlou, who is most well known for opening the restaurants at the Sofitel Metropol.  He was since gone solo and opened his own place, Verticale.  We met him and his wife at the restaurant, and he gave us a private tour of his favorite local market.  After the ingredients were purchased, he passed us off to his wife who drove us to their private house about 30 minutes out of town.  We weren’t happy about spending so much time in the car, but we forgot all about it when we walked through the gate into their incredible home.  The mix of zen-like decorations and countryside furniture, chef Corlou’s wife taught us how to make dishes such as curry chicken skewers, bun cha, and fresh and fried spring rolls.  We enjoyed our work over a nice glass of wine in their living room.  It turned out to be an amazing experience, one that we hope to replicate soon by testing our newfound skills.

The rest of the group also went on a tour of the city via cyclo, which is a bike drawn carriage famous in these parts.  I didn’t join them, instead opting for a nap, massage, and hair cut, but the report back was that they had a blast on the cyclos and exploring the inner parts of the city.  Don’t worry, though, Tania and Anna Marie made up for lost time by booking a spa day of their own the day before.  When you can get so much service done for such little money, it’s hard to pass up.

 Momma cruisin' the town on a cyclo.

My mom’s tour group Cox and Kings made reservations for us at several trendy (for all the right reasons) restaurants where we enjoyed some of the best meals we had on the trip.  Top notch every step of the way, which shed a whole new light on Hanoi versus the first time we were in the city and eating pho in corner holes in the wall.   If you ever want to experience this city, or any city in the world for that matter, give Anna Marie a call because her taste and connections will never disappoint.

We only had a few days in Hanoi before taking off for Ha Long Bay, but we made the most of the time by learning how it’s always been done in this city, and how well it is done nowadays.

Days 104-106 Monday-Wednesday February 22-24 Siem Reap, Cambodia

The You've Got Too Much To Do To Be Sitting Here Reading The Whole Entry Version

- Siem Reap is poor, but rich with history like very few places on this planet
- Angkor Wat and the surrounding wats were, and still are, marvels of engineering that have stood the test of time, aging well like the finest bottle of wine

On the way back from Can Tho to Saigon, we encountered the masses of people returning back to the big city after Tet.  It was quite apparent to us how seriously the big city empties when we saw the incredible amount of people returning the day before they were all due back at work.  Imagine driving back into LA or NYC the Sunday after Thanksgiving.  Chaos.  And delays.  

We had to say goodbye to our friend Mr. Un when he dropped us off at the Saigon airport.  Not sure how much I’m going to miss the way he finished sentences with AHA! like Canadians do with Eh, but he was one hell of a tour guide who always kept the mood light and our minds informed.

We flew into Siem Reap and were greeted by our new local tour guide Kong.  The tour company handled all of the paperwork at immigration for us, one of the many luxuries Tania and I are being spoiled with while traveling with Tony and Anna Marie.  Luxuries far from the realities we have been faced with by traveling alone whie on a marginally tight budget over the last few months.  We’re trying not to let it get to our heads, especially considering we still have two more countries to explore after they leave, but damn this type of travel is nice.

Cambodia as a whole is an extremely poor third world country, but Siem Reap is flooded with luxury hotels and restaurants to pamper the wealthy tourists that flock here for Angkor (pronounced On-core, not Ang-cor) Wat and all of the neighboring ruins.  Our hotel, Hotel de la Paix, was right up Tania’s and my alley due to its modern and luxurious feel, but not so much for my parents who are more attracted to the classic luxury of the Park Hyatt.  Either way, this place is the bee’s knees, especially our garden suite that had an outdoor sitting area with a marble bathtub sitting in the heart of the room.  Too bad it was too damn hot to think about spending more time outside than necessary.

We quickly got settled into the room and then met Kong at the front of the hotel so we could visit Angkor Wat before the sun went down.  It is the most well known landmark in Cambodia, so much so that the profile of its three main towers adorn the national flag.  It’s the largest religious building in the world after being build 1000 years ago.  Much of it still stands today, and even the intricate designs etched into the sandstone are still very visible today.  From these carvings to the massive moat outlining the exterior to the mindboggling engineering required to build such a structure, the entire complex is awe inspiring and humbling, even by today’s standards.  No wonder its one of the 7 man-made wonders of the world.  And not the fake world wonders that China keeps trying to claim, the real 7 wonders recognized by everyone.

 

The central towers at Angkor Wat

Perfectly maintained and incredibly intricate etchings in the halls of Angkor Wat

Tuesday morning we visited a fishing village 30 km outside of Siem Reap.  After driving down a red dirt road far from the paved highway, we came upon a long string of houses built on tall stilts, and families congregating outside to either socialize or to work together to string tiny fish on bamboo sticks so they could be dried for use over the next year.  The children waved as we drove by, and when we stopped the car and got out to watch their activities up close, the kids continued to wave, say goodbye (even though we had just arrived), and blow us kisses.  It melted our hearts as soon as we set foot outside of the van.

 Children stringing fish onto bamboo rods so they can be dried and used throughout the rest of the year.

Happy no matter what life has to offer.

Kong then took us to the end of the road where the town met the river at the Kampong Phluck floating village.  We jumped into a longboat and rode past more houses on stilts, and even houses built on flotation devices so they could adapt to the rising/sinking water levels.  As we learned, the waters hit their peak in October after the country is hit with heavy rains, yet they quickly recede as the hottest month of April quickly approaches, and the dry season settles in.  If it was this hot in February, God only knows how bad it’ll get in April.

 Maybe not the best place to stroll around the village.

It is a completely different way of life out here.  We didn’t know whether to feel bad that these people lived in such poverty, or to simply understand that they don’t need much, especially modern conveniences to be happy, and that our way of life isn’t right for everyone, including them.

We spent the rest of our time in Siem Reap visiting as many of the remaining wats as possible.  My dad and I hiked to the top of Phnom Bakheng before we all entered Angkor Thom and walked around Bayon, which is famous for the faces carved into the sides of the 52 peaked structures.  Tania was excited for the pink wat, Banteay Srei (Sanctuary of the Women), which ended up being more orange than anything.  Still, the carvings in the sandstone were as impressive as any other wat we visited.  And we all loved Ta Prohm, which has been gripped by the root system of the ancient trees that casts shade on the area. Unfortunately though, our two attempts at viewing Angkor Wat from a hot air balloon were canceled due to unruly weather.  Apparently the view from up there puts the vastness of the site in perspective, yet I think we understood its magnitude from afoot and up close.

And the foot of tree root systems strangling Ta Prohm.

The famous faces of Bayon can also be found here at the north gate of Angkor Wat. 

One could spend weeks here visiting the vast number of wats to simply soak in the magnitude of these massive structures that were built 900 years ago, and still stand strong in spite of weather and war.  It had the authentic feel that we hoped to experience in all historic relics in Asia, but that was missing in many places (China).  Here you feel like the structures are relaxing on the site with you, while in China it felt like you were being ushered in and given a show built for tourists.  Tough to explain, but you’ll know what we mean when you come here for yourself.

After soaking up all of the sites and the luxury of our hotel, we made a pit stop at the Art School for Children to pick up some locally made items, and headed for the airport to catch a flight back to Vietnam.  This time, we were heading back north to Hanoi to do all of the site seeing we skipped the first time so we could see it all new with Tony and Anna Marie.