Days 119-121 Tuesday-Thursday March 9-11 Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

The flight from Sandakan to Kota Kinabalu was easy, but as always with Air Asia, the walk from the plane to the terminal was abnormally long because, well, this isn't really a commercial airport.  Imagine Southwest Airlines only flying out of the most remote terminals and/or airports.  Makes one wonder whether the discounted airfare is actually worth it.

Enough of that.  Back to the trip.

When we got into KK, we grabbed a taxi and took the short ride to our hotel, the Hotel Eden54, which we obviously picked because of Lauren and Matthew's daughter Eden who was born the same day as my nephew Ian.  KK isn't the biggest town in the world, but it was definitely bigger than Sandakan, and had much more of a vibrant day and night life, which we were excited about after 4 days of quiet time on the waterfront.

We had several great meals while in KK, but that didn't start during our first night, which was spent at an Italian restaurant which was highly recommended in our books, and had a 50% off deal.  Well, there's a reason they offered such a discount because they didn't offer such great food or drink.  Tania's pina colada was not really a pina colada (that's what she gets for ordering a pina colada in Malaysia).  The wine was garbage.  And the food was not even close to the standard set by Anna Marie's famous Italian.  Luckily, though, we kept exploring KK eateries and found an incredible sushi joint that we visited several times, and some other decent restaurants that revamped our impression of food in KK.

Our first day we grabbed a speed boat out to two of the several islands just off the coast of KK for some R&R time on the beach.  It was a nice day of grabbing some sun, only interrupted by a swarm of Japanese tourists snapping pictures of girls in bikinis, and a hellish wind storm that forced us to the other side of one of the islands where the wind was being blocked.  We got in some good snorkeling in that quiet area, and I even braved the windy side of the island where the waves were 3 foot choppy, but paid off with incredible views under the water.  Gorgeous fish and choral of all shapes and colors.

 Where did these tourists come from, and where are their bathing suits?

 Shallow water snorkeling on one of the islands off of KK.

Our other big activity in KK was a bus tour up to Mount Kinabalu.  We were grouped with a fun set of people from all over the world, and got to take in the breathtaking views of the country's tallest mountain.  Snow capped the peaks and clouds skirted the edges, so we snapped some beautiful pics of the views.  We also got to enjoy a nice lunch, walk through a tree-top canopy park, and soak up the natural hot spring water before jumping back on the bus to return to KK.

Mount Kinabalu

KK seems to be where Malaysia as a whole is going in the future.  Catering to tourists, they're building a ton of malls (because it's so incredibly hot most of the year), opening nice restaurants, and expanding the city limits to allow for new developments perfect for prospecting home buyers.  Let's hope they grow gradually so that the worst scene we saw (more garbage floating in the water at the docks) doesn't start showing up over more parts of the city.

 Think twice about buying that case of water bottles next time you're at Costco.

We were delayed at the airport, so I walked around and snapped the below picture of a group of Muslim women dressed in a wide array of beautifully colored burkas.  They humored me and allowed me to take their picture as long as I sent them the picture to their email addresses.

 Women in beautiful burkas at the KK airport.

This Muslim country has its supreme differences from the US, but many similarities, which we hope bodes well for the middle east and west one day learning to live harmoniously together.

Vietnam & Cambodia Video

Here's the video we made for our time in Vietnam and Cambodia. This stretch of the trip was extra special since we got to spend so much time with family (Tony and Anna Marie) and friends (Steve, Lisa, Luke, Hugh). 

Music is by The Temper Trap and Hot Chip.

Enjoy.


Honeymoon Phase 4 - Vietnam & Cambodia from Craig Palumbo on Vimeo.

Tet eve on Nha Trang Beach

Nha Trang residents and those who were in town that week for the holiday crammed the beach to watch a very beautiful but looooong fireworks show.  Oh, and the ocean served as the world's largest urinal during the festivities.  Fun!

Tet eve on Nha Trang beach from Craig Palumbo on Vimeo.

Days 96-99 Saturday-Tuesday February 13-16 Nah Trang, Vietnam

In case you don’t know about Tet, it’s the the lunar new year, and is the biggest celebration in Vietnam.  As the year of the Tiger approached and we made our way down the coast from Hanoi, we were constantly told that getting to Saigon was going to be tough as Tet (Feb. 14) drew nearer.  Therefore, we purchased all of our train tickets ahead of time to guarantee that we’d have good seats on all of our trains.  Plus having solid plans helps Tania feel comfortable about the future, but we won’t go there right now.

Tet is the time when families get together to drink and be merry with each other, like Christmas, but also to remember relatives who have passed.  But mostly, it’s a week long celebration that out ranks any other holiday during the year. 

The week before Tet, we felt the anticipation grow and saw the extremely elaborate decorations being built around Saigon (think Mardi Gras meets the Rose Parade).  Amazingly beautiful decorations.  Yet Steve and Lisa kept saying that the city was going to be empty for Tet, similar to how LA empties out for Christmas, because not many people are from Saigon, and therefore return to their remote towns to see their families during the week following Tet.  So because of this, we decided to head up to Nah Trang where Steve’s (and Dave and Brian’s) dad lives.  It’s a mellow beach town where their father, Hugh, has two apartments, one of which we could stay at for a few days.  So we hopped onto an overnight bus, slept in the oddest configuration of reclining seats one can imagine, and headed up the coast. 

 Beaching it at Louisiae in Nha Trang.  It's a tough life we live.

Nha Trang Beach as the sun sets behind us

Hugh greeted us at the apartment and made us feel right at home.  We spent most of our days relaxing at the beach at the Louisiane’s resort and deciding whether the lobster being sold by vendors were as fresh as they looked.  The city didn’t come alive until the night because shops were closed for Tet, so we weren’t given too many options during the days, which was fine with us.  Yet at night, we had great seafood and Indian meals, and enjoyed the celebratory atmosphere the buzzed throughout the city.

 After dinner with Steve's dad, Hugh.

On Tet eve, we joined the crowd that packed the beach and watched an extensive yet impressive fireworks show over the water.  To call the beach packed, though, is not doing it justice.  All we can say is that the entire city, plus everyone in town for the week, were on the beach.  Crazy.  Yet things didn’t get out of hand because luckily, the men had the world’s largest urinal at their disposal right there on the beach.

 Tet eve on Nha Trang Beach

On Monday we met up with Steve and Lisa’s friends from Saigon Anne, Jacob and their son Lucas at their resort just out of town.  Not much changed from what we had been doing at the beach.  Just the environment changed from the ocean to the pool.  It’s a rough life we live.

Having not done too much site seeing in the past few days, Tania and I searched Trip Advisor for the most important things to do while in Nah Trang.  The winning site was the natural mud baths.  Figuring our travel-weary bodies could go for some organic health care, we grabbed a cab out to the fringes of town.  As we soon found out, we weren’t the only ones.  When we pulled up, we saw the sea of tour buses that we’ve come to identify with tourist traps.  Then we saw the masses pouring in and out of the gates before us.  Hesitantly, we made our way to the ticket office and purchased the all inclusive VIP package, which gave us a private mud bath (no strange foreigners in our mud, please) and changing room, and a 45 minute massage afterward.

 Drenched in our provate mud bath.

Well, we did our obligatory 20 minutes in the mud, received the hurried 20 minute massage, and quickly rinsed off so we could catch the next cab back to Hugh’s apartment to meet the gang and take the overnight bus back to Saigon.  Feel free to skip the mud baths if you’re ever in Nah Trang unless you’re feeling extra Clark Griswoldy that day.

It was great to spend time with Hugh and get to know this mellow beach town of Nah Trang.  It’s a far cry from the intense scene in Saigon, which is obviously why Hugh moved his life up here.  Thanks for playing a great host, Hugh!  Looking forward to seeing you at Luke and Thu’s wedding in April!

Days 84-88 Monday-Friday February 1-5 Hoi An, Vietnam

We took a quick 2 hour train ride from Hue to Danang, passing lush hillsides and glimmering coastal beaches.  The guy sitting behind me didn’t appreciate the fact that my seat wouldn’t sit completely upright, meaning I rode like a gangster in a low rider while my seat blocked his flip-down table from holding his train-prepared meal.  Even though he was pissed, I think he appreciated not eating it later in the day.  It looked pretty nasty.

A driver picked us up at the train station in Danang and headed towards Hoi An.  On the way, we stopped at marble mountain, aptly named due to the fact that they sell a ton of marble sourced from a nearby mountain.  Big and small and in any design you could imagine, you can buy it here.  But instead of purchasing a 12 foot tall Buddha and finding a way to ship it home, we opted for a marble egg for Anna Marie and a  pocket-size Buddha that I can use as a card protector during poker tourneys.

Comparing Buddha bellies at Marble Mountain

Also on the way to Hoi An, we drove past China Beach where a ton of luxury hotels and casinos are opening, meaning this beach is about to become a tourist hot spot, similar to what Biloxi was before Katrina.  It’s a far cry from being the initial stomping grounds for US troops almost 50 years ago. 

Once in Hoi An, we spent our time walking through the huge central market buying ban mis (Vietnamese sandwiches which are the cheapest and tastiest sandwiches this side of Bay Cities) and fresh fruit.  The market is a crash course in Vietnamese culture, so luckily we were accustomed to the local idiosyncrasies and weren’t too alarmed at anything.

We also spent some time adoring the riverside shops and restaurants, which come alive at night when the lights turn on and reflect off the river’s calm waters.  People flood the river banks, enjoying public plastic tables and chairs, sipping beer or tea, and either chatting with friends or their loved one as if nobody could see them.  It’s a magical place to be on a cool clear night.

 Tania making sure not a drop of her flambeed banana dessert went to waste.

We rode our bikes down to the beach hoping to renew our relaxing days in southern Thailand.  On the way, we stopped and walked through the rice paddies meeting locals and their water buffaloes (see the video previously posted).  We had driven by so many of these infinite green fields but never explored the inner workings of one, so this was our perfect opportunity.  Apparently not too many tourists venture into the fields because we were quickly approached by the field workers who wanted to chat and take pictures with us. 

 Our new water buffalo friend amongst the lush green rice paddies.

The beach wasn’t quite as relaxing as we had hoped due to the windy conditions and oily waters, but it was nice to be back under the sun in our bathing suits and laying on our towels.

Another day we hired a speed boat to take us snorkeling, again hoping to renew one of our Thailand loves, and to put our newly purchased snorkel gear to use.  Well, we were scheduled to swim for 2.5 hours, but we were back in the boat after 20 minutes due to the incredibly cold water and ferocious sea lice who bit us incessantly.  Luckily, the boat trip included an afternoon on Cham Island beach and a delicious lunch.  There we were able to soak up the sun and walk around the deserted island, so the trip wasn’t a complete waste.

 Craig's beard kept him warm in the freezing water while snorkeling, but the chilly conditions proved to be too much for the honeymooners.

All of that was fine and dandy, but the biggest hit in Hoi An for us (and for most visitors to the city) was the custom tailoring at incredibly affordable prices.  We had suits, shirts, pants, dresses, and even a winter coat all made of fabrics we selected, all custom tailored to our bodies, and all at a fraction of the cost it would be in the US.  Once we left Hoi An, we were geared up with improved wardrobes for the impending job hunt when we get back. 

And about that job hunt, we keep finding excuses to push it back as far as possible.  Now we’re planning on not only spending time with my family (especially little Ian who’s almost a year old!!), but we’ll be in Atlanta with Tania’s family while Patrick hikes the Appalachian Trail for 5 months.  What other excuse do we need to stay unemployed than to spend quality time with our families?  Exactly!  That’s what we’re thinking.

Morakot Cave inside of Koh Muk

During our 4 island snorkeling trip off of Koh Lanta in Thailand, we swam 80 yards into the heart of the island where a mesmerizing beach lives.  Tania gives a great description of it below.


Morakot cave inside of Koh Muk from Craig Palumbo on Vimeo.

Days 45-49 Wednesday – Sunday December 23-27, 2009 Koh Pha Ngan

Highlights

-       - When on vacation, remember that it’s not all site seeing, and remember to unwind.

-       - If you’re going to partake in a fast, you need to follow a strict diet before starting the fast.  Therefore, don’t do a fast.

-       - There’s nothing wrong with getting a Thai massage every day when they’re that cheap.

The "Nothing good on late night Thai TV" version

It’s easy to know you’ve let go of all previous obligations when your primary objective to achieve before sun down is to truly understand the difference in color between the deep blue ocean water beyond the break and the light aqua-blue water closer to the subtly absorbing sand.  It’s not until these moments that you realize that months and months of stressful preparation have come to fruition not only for your cultural growth, but for your physical and spiritual health.  No longer do we ignore the beauty in front of us instead of losing our minds to what might be away from where we are.  No longer do our chests tighten uncontrollably simply because a miniscule worry passes across the back of our brains.  This is why we came to this land; to enjoy the stunning world around us, and to absorb the relaxed state of our new husband/wife.

That last paragraph might be overly abstract and/or nonsensical, but I can’t ignore the fact that that’s where my (Craig’s) head was at during one lazy afternoon on Malibu Beach.  That’s on Koh Pah Ngan in southern Thailand islands, not in Los Angeles.

After going so hard through Japan and China, we had no idea how incredibly tired we were from so much traveling and sight seeing, and how in need we were for downtime, that when we got to the first truly lazy beach destination, we sank into that sand and had little interest in doing anything else.

Christmas eve and Christmas day were full of the following…wake up, Skype with our family during their Christmas festivities, eat our inclusive breakfast at the beach restaurant, stay at said beach restaurant through dinner, taking a quick swim and drink a banana shake while at said restaurant, learning first-hand that crabs dart both vertically and laterally (whatever this link means), then heading back to our bungalow to watch a (very legal) DVD and passing out before the evening news starts; assuming there is an evening news, and that it starts around 10pm, which we can not confirm either way since there's no TV in our bamboo bungalow.

We did walk around Choloklum, ride a scooter (extremely carefully) to Koh Ma (an island that you can walk to because a connective sandbar is walkable during low tide), and visit friends at Haad Rin and Haad Yao for dinner and drinks, but mainly, we completely decompressed around Malibu Beach.

There’s something to be said about hurriedly site seeing when you’ve got a short amount of time to take-in a country/region, but when you’ve got 5 months, and you’ve just gotten done quitting your jobs, selling everything you own, moving out of a city, throwing a week-long wedding, and venturing off on a 5 month honeymoon through a completely unknown land, you also need to enjoy a considerable amount of down-time to enjoy your surroundings, enjoy the culture, and to enjoy the person you’ve just committed yourself to for the rest of your life.  Which we did, and did it well.

If you can’t tell, we slightly liked Koh Pha Ngan.

Merry Christmas!!!

Greetings from Koh Pha Ngan in Thailand!!!

We hope everybody had a happy and safe Christmas (and Hanukkah and Kwanzaa where applicable).

We love and miss you all!

Here are some pics of the secluded Malibu Beach, next to the bungalow where we're staying on Koh Pha Ngan

 

**As you can tell, the blog has been back logged due to our inability to update in China, but we'll be in Thailand through the middle of January, and should have the blog live by then so you can be reading up to date posts**